Over at the SPU MFA program—the best writing program of its kind and not just because I teach in the poetry portion— we’re about to have our first residency on campus, having usually conducted them at Camp Casey on Whidbey Island. This will allow our writers to experience some of the cultural riches available in our fair city during the course of their program, rather than bypassing said cultural riches in quick exchange for the natural ones. But, I’d hate for anyone visiting from out-of-state, or from abroad, to put their foot wrong and so miss out on the big ones.
My first few visits to Seattle, I didn’t go the right places. I headed for the tall buildings thinking that’s where the action would be and found a hollow business core with nowhere to eat and nowhere to look but up. Since I am now a resident of this lovely place, here are some things I’d try to see while on oh, say, a ten-day visit which will be productive and full but will also feature some free time.
Note: there are many great ways to experience a city as complicated as this one. The following tips are meant for writers and artists visiting town who are staying in northern Queen Anne. Note 2: Seattle is a city of neighborhoods. You don’t go to see sites, particularly, but areas that are charming and funky and walkable. Get to a few of them and the riches will reveal themselves.
Upper Queen Anne
Atop the hill from SPU (take any of the buses on 3rd headed up) is a strip of businesses along Queen Anne Avenue. It’s pretty logical just to walk along finding cute places, but I’d be sure not to miss the following.
Eden Hill Provisions Big Max Burger (they changed the name. Same place though)
unbelievable burgers, shakes, fries and an adorable picnic area on Crockett street.
Blue Highway Games
this is a place to buy board games and puzzles and dice, but it’s super unique. They let you sit and play most of the games and the staff seems to know everything.
Mail Dispatch
as it sounds, this is where we ship packages, but there’s a good selection of gifts and clothing and wool socks.
Moonrise Bakery
recently opened bakery where everything is outstanding.
Queen Anne Book Co.
our local spot, run by an alumnus. Tell them you’re an SPU student for a discount.
Stuhlbergs
fancy gifts and cards and soaps and things.
Hilltop Alehouse
best beers on tap in the area, a nice back patio, and pub food that doesn’t need to be great but is anyway.
Fremont
Just across the blue bridge from where we are is a compact neighborhood full of great eateries and drinkeries. It’s easy to understand, all falling in likely lines surrounding the PCC (local, organic produce), but if you go, make sure to see these places.
Dusty Strings
a stringed instrument shop worth visiting even if you don’t play stringed instruments. They build guitars and harps right on the premises.
Theo Chocolates
the best chocolate in the city is made right across the canal from campus. Stop in for copious samples, or even a factory tour is you have time.
Fremont Used Books
a cozy little shop that has a good section of literary biographies in the basement and an upstairs reading nook that you can’t stand up in.
Simply Deserts
get a piece of cake. Trust me.
Aesop
a beautifully designed selection of personal care products . They usually have a copy of Paris Review or Poetry Northwest sitting around by the high-design chairs. Smell things. Wash your hands in their stone basin.
Fremont Antique Mall
tucked in the alleyway, this is a large and funky collection of kitch and LP’s and all the other ephemera from eras past.
Fremont Coffee House/ ETG
these places are opposite one another and both great. The former is an old house converted to a coffee shop; sit and linger on the broad front porch. The latter is a tiny closet that makes great biscuits and serves European-style espresso you drink in the courtyard nearby.
Mischief
my second-favorite whiskey maker in the Pacific Northwest with a chic interior for hanging out with a wee dram.
Ballard
Anyone who visits Seattle without spending a morning in Ballard is getting ripped off. I’d do this before seeing the Space Needle or Pike Place Market. A working-class neighborhood suddenly made good featuring the city’s best food and drink. On Sundays, they have a Farmer’s market that’s huge. Basically, you want to see everything on Leary Way and Ballard Ave, but especially don’t miss these.
Lucca
my favorite store anywhere. Writing papers and pencils, Italian aftershave, trinkets: this place is a whole argument for a certain kind of life.
Clover Toys
This shop used to be much more beautiful than it is now, but it is still well-stocked with toys and clothes you wouldn’t see elsewhere.
Ballard Locks
watch the ship traffic; see the Salmon jump if they’re running.
Filson
Local outdoor outfitters set-up to equip the hopeful on their way to the Yukon gold rush. Still around and still making gorgeous things.
Hot Cakes
Oh man, everything on their menu is incredible. A late-night desert spot. Try Butter-beer, if you’ve ever wondered.
Elsewhere in Town
Should you find yourselves wandering further afield, keep these spots in mind.
Elliot Bay Books
best bookstore in the city. Used to be the best in the country in their former location. Extremely well-curated. In a cool area where you’ll find many diversions.
Open Books
one of only two poetry-only bookstores in America. Heads up: they moved locations since you were last here.
Le Pichet
if you’re going to do the Pike Place Market thing, do yourself a favor and have a little something here while you’re in the area. A little bit of France downtown.
General Porpoise
the best doughnuts you’ve ever had. Two, maybe three locations now.
Citizen
if going to the Space Needle, this is the best food in the vicinity. Lots of outdoor seating and good coffee.
Central Library
a building worth seeing both from the inside and out.
There is much, much more, obviously, but this list should get the curious traveller started. Feel free to flag me down for more details or tips. And have a good trip.